April 2025

Saroong Atelier, IAM, Le Ngok, Gia Studios, Caro Chia, and more

April brings an exciting wave of collaborations and showcases in Southeast Asian fashion. Jakarta’s Saroong Atelier has teamed up with Bali-based Menggah Agung for a special Raya collection, while IAM debuts its first collection featuring collaborations with Indonesian designers. Othman and Sonderlab join forces for a capsule menswear collection, and Bangkok’s Matter Makers partners with Tur Hair Salon for a bold new release.

Meanwhile, the Philippines’ Le Ngok takes the stage at Shanghai Fashion Week, Vietnam’s Gia Studios unveils its latest collection in Paris, and Malaysia’s Caro Chia and Bev C showcase new designs that highlight fluidity and asymmetrical details.

‘Through the Grapevine’ is a monthly round-up of fashion events in Southeast Asia, from collection launches to exhibitions, showcases, pop-ups, and more.

Indonesia

Othman x Sonderlab’s ‘Noir Structuré’ Campaign Photo. Image courtesy of Sonderlab.

Othman x Sonderlab
‘Noir Structuré’ Collection

Just in time for the Eid festivities, Othman and Sonderlab present ‘Noir Structuré’, a collaboration collection that draws on the grandeur of 19th- and 20th-century European aristocratic fashion. With a focus on strong geometric motifs and fluid tailoring, the pieces are set in a palette of deep browns, cream, and black. Unveiled at Othman’s store in Marygold Mrkt, Plaza Senayan, the collection features light corduroy balloon pants, floral-patterned shirts, and the signature rhombic geometric jacket—all crafted from breathable, lightweight fabrics that lend a modern sensibility to festive dressing.

Saroong Atelier x Menggah Agung
Raya Collection

Based in Jakarta, Saroong Atelier creates clothing that reinterprets Indonesia’s rich textile traditions for a contemporary audience. For a special Raya edition, the brand collaborates with Menggah Agung, a distinguished Balinese weaving artisan collective, to present a collection that highlights the island’s exceptional craftsmanship and traditional fabrics. The collection features high-collared tops with patchwork balloon sleeves, asymmetrical skirts layered with draped fabric strips, and a modern take on the kebaya, designed with a wrap-like front and buttons running elegantly along the edges.

IAM’s ‘Obscuring Overtures’ Collection Campaign. Image taken from IAM’s Instagram.

IAM
‘Obscuring Overtures’ Debut Collection

For its debut collection, ‘Obscuring Overtures’, IAM by Metta Jayanti and Brianca Bachtar introduced the brand through an immersive mixed-media pop-up installation at Urban Forest. Describing itself as a “creative playground”, the online fashion house collaborates with local designers, including ANW x LUA Archives, Aesthetic Pleasure, St. Yarra, and Jan Sober, to create exclusive pieces or reimagine existing silhouettes in fresh colorways and materials. Designed with individuality and self-expression in mind, many of the pieces are limited-edition, such as Aesthetic Pleasure’s signature Ace Baguette bag in light blue cow leather and ANW x LUA Archives’ range of slanted and shirred blazers and vests, featuring their signature flower button details.

Malaysia

BEV C
Spring/Summer 2025 Collection

Founded in 2013 by designer Beverly Bee, BEV C has built its identity on fluidity and function, crafting unisex designs that blur the lines between structure and spontaneity. Layering and versatility remain at the core of the brand’s aesthetic, a philosophy carried into its Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Asymmetry is a key design element, with pieces like a 20-button front jacket blazer designed for multiple styling possibilities and pants reimagined with oversized drawstring pockets.

Caro Chia
Autumn/Winter 25 Collection: ‘Complexity’

Caro Chia, the Malaysian fashion label founded in 2020, continues to push the boundaries of textile innovation with its latest Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, ‘Complexity’, which was unveiled in Paris. Known for its sculptural draping and experimental construction, the brand reimagines everyday clothing through a refined yet subversive lens. This season, Caro Chia explores the interplay between structure and fluidity. Sheer tops are delicately layered, their transparent textures overlapping in unexpected ways, while deconstructed striped dresses—marked by asymmetrical fabric panels crisscrossing the torso—create an architectural silhouette.

Phillipines

Official poster for Le Ngok for Shanghai Fashion Week’s Young Talents Program. Image taken from Le Ngok’s Instagram.

Le Ngok
’Glitch Theory’ Collection Launch at Tranoï Tokyo and Shanghai Fashion Week’s Young Talents Programme

Through a fusion of mixed media and experimental techniques, Le Ngok by Carla Zhang is an exploration into materiality and silhouette. Following their pop-up at Tranoï Tokyo, where they unveiled the ‘Glitch Theory’ collection, the brand was selected for the Young Talents programme by Ontimeshow Shanghai, securing a spot at Shanghai Fashion Week. The collection includes a black-and-white striped dress with sculptural ruffles and cut-out details that reveal glimpses of skin, as well as a paper-like dress made with jagged white fabric strips.

Thailand

Matter Makers
Matter Makers x Tur Hair Salon and ‘Private Area’ Collection Drop

Following their collaboration with creative hairstyling hub Tur Hair Salon for the ‘Mattur Salon Fashion Show’—a presentation that explored the intersection of clothing and hair through statement pieces and hair-inspired patterns—Bangkok-based streetwear brand Matter Makers has unveiled the second drop of their ‘Private Area’ collection. This latest release features pieces such as denim pants with bow-tie accents at the hem and oversized knit sweaters with distressed details, which continues the brand’s signature blend of edgy and playful aesthetics.

Vietnam

Gia Studios
Fall/Winter 2025 Collection

Coming from a family of tailors, Lam Gia Khang founded Gia Studios in 2018 with a vision of creating minimalist yet sophisticated designs for the modern woman. The brand is known for its clean lines, neutral silhouettes, and subtle elegance, all while honouring Vietnamese traditional craftsmanship. For their latest Fall/Winter 2025 Collection which was unveiled at their Paris Showroom, Gia Studios explores sculptural draping, asymmetrical cuts, and delicate pleats, balancing structured tailoring with voluminous silhouettes.