Kebaya Kawan
In praise of tradition
Dear reader, in celebration of the kebaya being added to the UNESCO list of intangible cultural heritage of humanity, and in preparation of Eid, we introduce some of our favourite brands that keep the tradition of kebaya wearing alive.
Modern Kebaya
Campaign by Indonesian brand ANW. Image taken from ANW’s Instagram.
ANW
ANW is a bespoke brand from Jakarta, Indonesia. Their designs feature a heavy use of gauze-like fabrics with hand embroidery inspired by the Japanese art of kirigami. ANW’s embroidery style takes on their signature sketched blossom. The mix of heritage silhouette and cross-cultural modern techniques give their kebayas a contemporary touch. Each piece is made-to-order and takes three weeks to ship. ANW is stocked at the trendy select shop, Pillar at Plaza Indonesia.
ANAABU’s EID 2025 ‘Kongsi Masa’ collection campaign. Image taken from ANAABU’s Instagram.
ANAABU
ANAABU is a unisex Malaysian brand known for their lifestyle-led designs. As a reflection of the multi-culturalism in Malaysia, the brand mixes both Malay and Chinese heritage in this collection. Many fans point to its relaxed, non-fussy approach and utilitarian fabric choices that breathe well in the tropical humidity as selling points. The Mekar Loose Kebaya released in the 2024 Eid collection has since become a staple. This season, Annabu explores an asymmetrical closure. It is a nod to the cheongsam, whilst adopting the loose-fitting silhouette of a mid-19th century kebaya.
A kebaya with a corset built into its design from the Spring Summer 2024 collection. Image taken from TOTON’s Instagram.
TOTON
TOTON needs no introduction. The brand's panache for recontextualising traditional silhouettes with modern-day detailing has been its modus operandi since day one. For each collection, designer Toton Januar works directly with local artisans and makers to ensure quality control and fair wages. His practice has gained him the respect of industry insiders, and a loyal customer base.
Shals and Tangsi’s ‘Gerhana’ collection campaign. Image taken from Shals’ Instagram.
Tangsi
Since the start of 2025, Malaysian brand Tangsi has released two almost sold-out collections. One is a collaboration titled ‘Gerhana’ with contemporary label Shals, and the other with online retailer Dia. Their main operation is an in-house collection that can be worn everyday, as well as a bespoke bridal line. Most recently, they custom-made the lace wedding kebaya of photographer Amani Azlin Shah with custom embroidery.
Classic Kebaya
Kebaya collection available at Java Pitu. Screenshot taken from Batik & Kebaya JavaPitu’s Instagram.
Batik & Kebaya Java Pitu Collection Indonesia
A purveyor of antique batik and kebaya, Java Pitu houses a large collection of vintage pieces from the mid-20th century as well as in-house designs inspired by them.
‘Sekar Maemun’ collection campaign featuring a Kebaya Encim. Image taken from Batika Kebaya’s Instagram.
‘Sekar Maemun’ collection campaign. Image taken from Batika Kebaya’s Instagram.
Batika Kebaya
Based in Kuala Lumpur and produced in Indonesia, Batika Kebaya was founded by Noorul-Hudaa Abdul-Rahman. She started the brand as an homage to her mother. Noorul-Hudaa grew up experiencing a mix of Javanese and Sundanese cultures and was inspired by her stylish mother wearing kebaya in her childhood. Batika Kebaya specialises in form-fitting silhouettes that accentuate the body’s curves. Noorul-Hudaa’s mission is to bring back tradition and preserve the intricacies of craft in the face of fast fashion.
As I gather this list of brands and sellers, I am struck by an age-old sense of community that traditional culture elicits. The diversity of techniques, styles and approaches are interesting to observe. With that, I cannot help but think of the many creatives and artisans needed in order to come up with a single kebaya. I imagine the time taken to learn about the techniques and processes and then re-interpreting them through rounds of experimentation.
Toton, for example, has spent his oeuvre contemplating and reinventing the traditional form, a constant conversation with the past and future in every collection. Younger designers take on a playful spin on the kebaya, either by incorporating details from other cultures or playing with the shape and tailoring, giving it a sense of ease for modern life. Then we have collector Java Pitu’s collection of antique and vintage pieces which gives us a concrete sense of what these garments from the past feel and look like. The interest in and fondness for the kebaya can be seen throughout this community of Kebaya Kawan, which makes it heartening to write about in this month’s Occasional Obsessions.
Till next time!
Best Regards,
MFYG