Through The Lens: Nicole Ngai
Singaporean-Hongkong photographer on editorial shoots and directorial debut in London
‘Through the Lens’ is a series that explores in detail images from fashion image-makers in Southeast Asia, shining a light on their creative and technical processes.
Nicole Ngai is a Singaporean-Hong Kong photographer who uses medium-format photography and hand-printing to create sensual fashion imagery. Currently based in London, Ngai traces back to her early days of reading i-D and Dazed and Confused to shooting editorials for fashion magazines and a directorial debut for singer Baobei.
Ai Mei Li campaign, 2023. Image courtesy of Nicole Ngai.
Could you talk about your background? How did you start your photographic practice?
I am a Singaporean-Hong Kong photographer. I am currently based in London, where I have been living and working for the past eight years. I got into photography as a teenager when my best friend recruited me to take photos for her fashion blog. This was in 2013, so we were wearing Boy London, Comme des Fuckdown, Jeffrey Campbell litas, and a lot of UNIF. Back then, UNIF was still a goth brand.
At the same time, I was interested in fashion magazines and I would bring her copies of i-D and Dazed and Confused to suggest shooting her outfits in an editorial way. I moved on from shooting my best friend to doing test shoots with newly signed models, and now to shooting editorials for fashion magazines.
Laura, 2023. Image courtesy of Nicole Ngai.
What would you like to communicate through your photographs? Are there any specific elements that you would want people to pay attention to, and why?
I am not overly concerned about my viewer or audience. Instead, I am very present while shooting. I care most about the creative flow on set and how my model is feeling. I want people to have fun and feel confident. Every model is different, and as a photographer, I respond to their energy, so the photograph becomes a frozen snippet of a conversation, or an exchange of energies. The social aspect of photography is what interests me the most in my artistic practice.
Joshua Zero, 2024. Image courtesy of Nicole Ngai.
What kind of inspiration or influences do you see in your work and can you elaborate on them?
Asian art house cinema, vintage porn, hazy shoegaze riffs, rituals, bare skin, the human condition, sacred and profane love.
Yoorim, 2024. Image courtesy of Nicole Ngai.
Can you talk through your creative process? What are some challenges you face as a photographer, and how do you solve them?
I enjoy being out and about in London, usually at the pub, so a lot of my inspiration comes from bouncing off ideas with my friends and lovers—sharing our mutual interests, what we are into at the moment and how we can come together to make something really cool. Making art is fun with friends! I am lucky to be surrounded by amazing and talented people.
I think the biggest challenge is the mental battle: burnout, self-doubt, and financial stress in an increasingly expensive city. Being a tortured artist is OUT in 2025 and healthy coping mechanisms are IN!
Ai Mei Li campaign, 2023. Image courtesy of Nicole Ngai.
Lastly, what plans do you have in store for your practice moving forward? Are there any projects that you are currently working on?
This year, I have been feeling very inspired and in the mood to shoot more, especially editorial work. I just filmed a music video for the artist Baobei which will be my directorial debut. I am also hoping to release a new zine. I have been building my 100-page InDesign file, tentatively titled ‘Nico’s World’. It will explore the rich, romantic visual language I have built up over the years and feature an otherworldly feeling with hand printed, medium-format film images juxtaposed with iPhone photos. I want to capture the beauty of real life through these images.
See more of Nicole’s work on her personal website here or at Instagram at @nicolengai_.