Fresh Faces: Carla Zhang
Upcycling fashion with unconventional materials
F&M FRESH FACES is a series featuring young Southeast Asian fashion practitioners and speaks with them about how they embarked on their careers and what propels them as creatives.
Carla Zhang is the founding designer of her emerging Philippines-based label, Le Ngok. The label was initially created as a digital archive to showcase her works throughout her studies at SoFa Design Institute in Manila, from which she graduated this year, and was featured by the PHx Fashion Group at MaArte at The Peninsula Manila, a fundraising bazaar which benefits the Museum Foundation of the Philippines. Implementing a mixed-media approach, the label’s practice focuses on experimenting with unconventional materials and techniques. Carla’s innovative method of crafting upcycled garments continues to push the envelope within the local fashion landscape, breathing new life into recycled materials.
Carla Zhang.
To start, could you talk about your background? What was your first memory or encounter with fashion?
My interest in fashion started when I was a young girl. I still vividly remember the excitement of being able to draw my first fashion sketch. It was at that moment I decided that I want to be a fashion designer in the future.
What themes, ideas, or subjects are piquing your interest at the moment? What or who are the main influences your work draws upon?
I am currently interested in learning 3D modelling and applying 3D printing to my practice. When I was 13 or 14 years old, I was truly amazed and inspired by the work of Alexander McQueen. From then on, the idea that was planted in my mind was to be a designer who creates unique and meaningful designs.
Could you describe the initial process of creating your label Le Ngok? What was the story behind it?
I want Le Ngok to be a label that represents the visual translation of “uniquely interesting designs”. The name Le Ngok is derived from my nickname ‘le’, which means joyful and interesting, whereas ‘Ngok’ represents my mother who has believed in and supported my dream from the very beginning.
You mentioned in your interview with CNN Philippines that Le Ngok’s ‘Cyber Gaze’ collection conveys a compelling narrative about the effects of cyberbullying on one’s mental health. How did you arrive at this theme and could you share more of the creative process behind the collection?
The inspiration for this collection came from one of the lowest points in my life, but apart from what I learned from that experience, I also want my story to represent strength, resilience, and redemption. In this social media-driven society, I hope that the awareness of cyberbullying and mental health can be conveyed and built through this collection.
You have mentioned in an interview that fashion week is no longer necessary. As a young designer, what are some alternatives you have been observing taking place in the fashion industry, especially since the pandemic?
Digital presentations have been on the rise, from formats as simple as videos to digital clothing in the form of NFTs. Since the pandemic, everyone has ensured that there is always an accessible alternative. At some point, fashion week felt unnecessary with strict lockdown measures. It is human nature, however, to crave physical interaction and our curiosity will pique with the things we encounter. I am glad to see that there are now more varied ways of accessing or experiencing a collection.
Look 3 of ‘Cyber Gaze’ collection, ‘Insecurity’, 2022. Image courtesy of Carla Zhang.
Look 4 of ‘Cyber Gaze’ collection, ‘Isolation’, 2022. Image courtesy of Carla Zhang.
For your collection, you made use of unconventional materials such as discarded cell phone chips and electrical wires. Were there any challenges that you faced during the process of creating the collection?
There were definitely countless challenges and frustrations. Experimentation takes a lot of trial and error, but I do enjoy the problem-solving process and love challenging myself to push the boundaries when I create.
“Experimentation takes a lot of trial and error, but I do enjoy the problem-solving process and love challenging myself to push the boundaries when I create.”
The process of making crochet out of electrical wires. Image courtesy of Carla Zhang.
The process of working with discarded cell phone chips. Image courtesy of Carla Zhang.
In the same interview, you stated that you applied a mixed-media approach throughout your studies at the SoFA Design Institute. How does this shape the way you design or market your brand?
I am very thankful for the teachings and support from SoFA Design Institute. The SoFA Method, which is the school’s approach to design education, encourages us to think boldly and create tangible output from our own personal narratives. I have since expanded my horizons as I began to learn and appreciate different forms of art. This has helped me a lot as I forge my own design language and unique aesthetic.
Look 6 of ‘Cyber Gaze’ collection, ‘Courage’, 2022. Image courtesy of Carla Zhang.
Are there any specific materials or techniques that are your favourite to work with?
I would like to work with various mixed materials and techniques, especially using conventional objects and making them unconventional through creativity.
Le Ngok was one of the chosen brands that were featured at PHxMaArte last August to represent the current fashion landscape in the Philippines. I am curious to know some of the opportunities that you look forward to as an emerging designer in the Philippines.
I plan to continue pushing the envelope when it comes to experimenting with different techniques, media, and most especially technology. I think the fashion industry in the Philippines will appreciate my commitment to innovation in my designs.
‘Wasteland of Tomorrow’ collection featured at PHxMaArte, 2021. Image courtesy of Carla Zhang.
What are your hopes for your local fashion scene, and in Southeast Asia as well?
I hope to see even more designers standing out in the fashion market with their own design language, which is something that both local and Southeast Asian fashion are embracing today.
Finally, what are your plans for your label moving forward?
I will continue to learn and gain experience as I build and design under my label Le Ngok.
Visit @le_ngok on Instagram to view more of Carla’s work.