Grace Ling SS25 Collection
Bridging primeval elements and future technologies in ‘Neanderthal’
Born in Singapore and currently based in New York, Grace Ling is one of the industry’s up-and-coming designers who explores the possibilities of technological innovation. Her eponymous brand was launched in 2020 after she graduated from Parsons School of Design with a BFA in Fashion/Apparel Design.
Two years after launching her brand, it was picked up by the global e-retailer Net-A-Porter. In the same year, the Square Cut Out Dress from the ‘Square’ collection was exhibited at the The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Ling made her runway debut at New York Fashion Week in 2023 with her Spring/Summer 2024 collection.
Grace Ling ‘Neanderthal’ collection campaign. Image taken from Grace Ling’s website.
Ling draws inspiration from a multitude of aspects. She is known for her recurring exploration of human anatomy and biomorphic silhouettes. This is evident in her past collections: ‘Mimicry’ (2021), ‘Square’ (2022), and ‘Form’ (2023). Furthermore, elements of surrealism are present in her work, including in ‘Uncanny Dreamscapes’ (2020) and ‘Neverland’ (2024).
Ling primarily incorporates 3D printing and CGI in her practice, allowing her to calculate the precise amount of required materials and create distinctive silhouettes with zero waste. This use of technology is consistently reflected in all her collections, including the latest one. In this article, we dive deeper into Grace Ling’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, ‘Neanderthal.’
Grace Ling ‘Neanderthal’ collection. Images taken from Grace Ling’s website.
‘Neanderthal’ was showcased as part of New York Fashion Week on 9 September 2024. Staying true to its name, the visual reference to the Palaeolithic era is apparent from the moment attendees arrive on set. The show took place in an industrial-style building in Manhattan, decorated with black volcanic rocks that engulfed the set with fog as models cascaded down the runway. As it began, Ling gradually peeled back the layers of the literal theme to explore the relationship between humans, their surrounding objects, and the spaces they occupy, whether in open natural environments or bustling metropolises.
The collection’s earthy and neutral colour palette allows the silhouettes to take centre stage. Consisting of a mix of ready-to-wear and couture, the line-up displayed the brand’s distinctive design language: structured hemlines, surrealist chrome embellishments and explorative technical elements. Ling also incorporates a raw and distressed aesthetic in the finer details. Some pieces give the illusion of having been eroded by natural elements, appearing torn, scorched and windswept.
Grace Ling ‘Neanderthal’ collection. Image taken from Grace Ling’s website.
Grace Ling ‘Neanderthal’ collection. Image taken from Grace Ling’s website.
Here, the designer continues experimenting with 3D printing to reinterpret the theme with a surrealist twist. The ‘Flame’ knitwear serves as an example. Inspired by Dutch painter Hieronymus Bosch's works, the asymmetrical hem with a sheer flame-edge detail creates a “burnt” look. Ling and her team achieved this outcome after rigorous study and experimentation with 3D-printed knit. With a slightly different approach, the same technique is applied to the ‘Censor’ knitwear series. The garments were made with ombré-coloured fabric that fades from opaque to sheer, which generates the appearance of censored bars over the body.
Grace Ling ‘Neanderthal’ collection. Image taken from Grace Ling’s website.
Grace Ling ‘Neanderthal’ collection. Image taken from Grace Ling’s website.
Ling’s background in fine arts has significantly influenced her design approach. Her expertise in sculpture-making is exhibited in the 3D-printed metal pieces in her collections. In ‘Neanderthal’, the opening look features aluminium breastplates shattered into several fragments. Recognised as one of the brand's signatures, different versions of the breastplates can be seen in previous collections, particularly ‘Form’ (2023) and ‘Neverland’ (2024). Parallel to the opening look, Ling closes the show with an entirely 3D-printed metal dress resembling a barbed-wire bird’s nest.
‘The Handaxe Bag’, a collaboration between Grace Ling and Humane. Image taken from Grace Ling’s Instagram page.
The metal sculptures also take the form of accessories. At the showcase, the designer unveiled ‘The Handaxe Bag’, a collaboration with Humane, a US-based computer electronics company that founded the first wearable AI computer. The bag was designed to resemble a Neolithic tool and is equipped with an AI pin for voice-enabled personal assistance.
Grace Ling ‘Neanderthal’ collection campaign. Image taken from Grace Ling’s website.
Grace Ling ‘Neanderthal’ collection campaign. Image taken from Grace Ling’s website.
Overall, ‘Neanderthal’ is a tongue-in-cheek reinterpretation of the evolution theory, which is fitting given the brand’s use of future materials. The collection's highlight lies in the duality of each look—what might appear distressed or rugged at first, ultimately reveals a meticulous craftsmanship when examined closely. This forms an aesthetic the designer has dubbed as “primitive chic.” Despite only being established for four years, the brand continues to push the boundaries of what can be created in fashion. With modern technology at the core of Ling’s design process, she is constantly seeking ways to innovate in future collections.
‘Neanderthal’ is available for pre-order here. Watch the collection presentation here.
See more of Grace Ling’s work on her website, or on Instagram at @gracelingofficial.